Friday, April 20, 2012

The Grey Plume


The Grey Plume
220 S. 31st Ave., Suite 3101, Omaha, NE 
(402) 763-4447

I have been to The Grey Plume half a dozen times now.  I have waited to write anything about them because they are Just. So. Good.  It is difficult to give a review when you don’t have anything bad to say. 

One of the things The Grey Plume does well is the attention to detail.  When they bring around warm crusty bread and house-made butter, the butter is delightfully spreadable soft.  That may seem like an insignificant detail, but spreading cold butter that tears up your bread is annoying. 

The menu is ever changing to keep up with what is fresh and available.  Some dishes are variations on a theme and simply incorporate new ingredients.  The comments I will make about the food are therefore, a bit general. 

My favorite thing at The Grey Plume is the soup.  I have tasted Butternut Squash Bisque, Beet Soup, and Parsnip Chowder.  All have been the smoothest, most velvety soups I have ever had.  The Beet Soup was served with smoke and when the dome was lifted, it was fantastic.  The Parsnip soup was served with coffee crumble, kumquats, roasted parsnip and huckleberry.  The combination seemed odd, but all worked. 

When it comes to entrées, I have experienced beautifully prepared halibut and the single best bite of scallop I have ever had.  The portion of halibut was buttery and moist and had been seared on one side until it had the perfect crust.  The halibut came with parisienne gnocchi which were as light and pillowy as gnocchi are supposed to be.  The pasta is always cooked spot on.  The vegetables are fresh and truly delightful. 

I like my desserts more spicy than sweet as I don’t have much of a sweet tooth.  The Grey Plume usually has scoops of house made ice cream as an option.  These ice creams are also smooth and velvety.  Perfect little rich and creamy quenelles that are a terrific after dinner bite, but not overwhelmingly sweet.  On a recent visit, they offered a take on Lemon Pie.  The dish was served with cubes of dill gel.  I thought this was brilliant as I love herbs, dill in particular.  It was a great complement to the lemon curd atop a puff pastry with a side of creamscicle ice cream.  I’m totally stealing the idea of putting dill with my lemon when I made my own ice creams this summer.  If you like your desserts more traditional, I’ve also had apples served three ways which came out as the best of apple pie, apple crisp and apple fritters all re-imagined and put on a plate. 

Best of all, the service is outstanding.  The staff is well informed.  They make excellent suggestions and offer thoughtful wine pairings.  Every person on staff you come in contact with during your visit strives to make sure your needs are attended to. 

THIS is fine dining.

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