Mark’s
4916 Underwood Ave. Upper, Omaha (402) 502-2203
Every time I go to Mark’s my boyfriend and I seem to end up having an argument. I’m not really sure why this happens. It could be the food brings out some deep emotions, or the environment allows us to feel relaxed and say what is really on our minds, or maybe it is just coincidence. Fortunately, our arguments are over something silly, but there is nothing frivolous about the food at Mark’s.
(I know that was cheesy. Gimme a break, okay?)
Anyway… The food!!
On my first visit to Marks I was already enchanted. We climbed the stairs and passed the hidden outdoor patio which I am eager to enjoy in warmer weather. The converted building has modern conveniences yet retains elements of older charm. The wood floors and waiting area wingback chairs are warm and welcoming. A heavy dining table invites you to stay and linger with friends for hours with a bottle (or three) of wine. The bistro tables pressed against the glass wall draw you like a moth to flame with the twinkling lights of Dundee just below you.
I was impressed with the menu with its ranging variety of selections. The cuisine is spirited American. They dapple in Asian, French , and Italian but it feels as if it is because someone had these dishes and loved them, not because they are trying too hard. Mark’s also has a wide selection of gluten free and vegetarian dishes.
My first time at Mark’s, we were in the mood for something lighter and decided to order sandwiches. We had our choice of sides and each picked the sweet potato fries, a waffle cut fry with spice to counter the sweetness and a house-made remoulade for dipping. I could have filled up on these crispy treats but managed to save room for the sandwiches. We went vegetarian and ordered the Tempeh Reuben and the Grilled Vegetable Sandwich. The flavor of the Reuben was spot on. Unfortunately, I don’t really care for Reubens, but if you like them, these are really well prepared. I was even more skeptical about the Grilled Vegetable Sandwich which boasted of smoky carrot “bacon.” I have eaten my share of bacon in my life and found the idea of a carrot replacement unimaginable. Surprisingly, it served quite well in the context of a sandwich. It is not something I would alongside eggs and toast, but in a sandwich it did indeed provide that smoky salty flavor one expects from bacon in a sandwich.
The real treat at this meal was the lemon basil cheesecake with balsamic macerated strawberries. Unfortunately, bowing to some seasonality, this item is not on their menu now, but it is one of the best things I have ever eaten. Ever.
Our second trip to Mark’s we received the same level of top notch service. The wait staff seem to struggle a little to remember all the complicated details of the nightly specials, but are well versed in the regular offerings and the wine selection. Bread and butter begin the meal and are brought quickly. We choose from the entrees this time and went international. My beau had their take on Indian food with the Spinach, Paneer and Pasta; I chose the Pad Thai Pasta. I was warned the Pad Thai was spicy, but it was as spicy as other Pad Thai I have had. Mine came with a choice of Tofu or Shrimp. Tofu seems to be a tricky ingredient and often has an odd texture but this was well prepared and fully marinated. The portion was enough for two meals. It could have used more vegetables proportionately and the garnish seemed to be an afterthought. I had to ration my crunchy peanuts. The Spinach Paneer dish was an interesting Indian/ Italian hybrid, not really evoking either.
For dessert we tried the Pumpkin Butterscotch Cheesecake and the Whisky Bread Pudding. The cheesecake was light and fluffy and tasted of all the best of pumpkin pie. The ginger crust and butterscotch ship topping were nice complements. I am a sucker for bread pudding and couldn’t resist. I was disappointed in the dish. It was served piping hot and had a good amount of the whiskey caramel sauce. The pudding itself however had not soaked into all the bread and tasted as if it had been reheated, perhaps more than once. It had crunchy and burnt pieces and one corner was hard.
Part of an enjoyable dining experience is of course, the experience. Mark’s delivers. This is an experience you will enjoy. It feels like going to a friend’s house and if you don’t have some there, you might make some new ones. Every time I have been greeted and welcomed by managers and patrons. The menu is varied enough that you will find something you want to eat and probably something you want to try next time. Even if you have an argument with your boyfriend every time, dining at Mark’s is worth it.
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